You may remember that a few weeks ago I threw a pity party for myself over some braised short-ribs. They had come out too tough, but the sauce I had made to go with it was too good to go to waste, so I ate the mediocre dinner and then cried to you about it. Being the seasoned chef that I am (that’s supposed to be a joke) I for some (god knows what) reason decided to give my own advice on how to make good short-ribs—even though I had never successfully made short-ribs.
“In the end, I learned that short ribs are probably best cooked over a long period of time, marinated the night beforehand, and then refrigerated once cooked, reheated and served the next day.”
OK, so that’s bullcrap and I’m here today to bite my tongue. And to give you a succulent recipe for tender short ribs, that only takes 2½ hours, and that has a tangy, creamy sauce that will make you forgive me for all the silly culinary things I say!
It’s been a loooong week that included a looong train ride and excruciating business trip… so instead of writing anymore text that will undoubtedly come out sounding crabby, here’s the recipe:
Braised Beef Short Ribs with Horseradish Cream
from The Gourmet Cookbook
Serves 4
- 1 T black peppercorns
- 1 tsp dried thyme, crumbled
- 1 bay leaf
- 5 pounds short ribs
- 1/2 tsp plus 1/8 tsp salt
- 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
- 2 T vegetable oil
- 2 medium onions, chopped
- 2 carrots, chopped
- 3 celery ribs, chopped, plus 1 T chopped celery leaves*
- 3 garlic cloves
- 1 (750 ml) bottle dry red wine, such as Burgundy
- 4 cups veal stock**
- 1/4 cup creme fraiche
- 1 T drained bottled horseradish
Wrap peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaf in a square of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle with kitchen string to make a bouquet garni.***
Pat ribs dry and sprinkle 1/2 tsp salt and pepper. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat until just smoking. Add ribs and sear, turning with tongs, until well browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Transfer ribs bone sides up to a roasting pan large enough to hold them in one layer. Set aside.
Put a rack in middle of oven and preheat oven to 375ºF.
Add onions, carrots, celery ribs, garlic, bouquet garni, and wine to skillet, bring to a boil, and boil until liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup, 15 to 20 minutes.
Stir stock into vegetables and bring to a boil. Pour stock mixture over ribs and cover pan tightly with foil. Transfer to oven and braise until meat is tender and falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Let cool slightly.
When ribs are cool enough to handle, remove any excess fat and discard bones.**** (Set pan aside.) Transfer beef to a bowl and cover to keep warm.
Pour cooking liquid through a fine mesh sieve into a small saucepan, pressing on solids; discard solids and skim fat. Bring to a boil and boil sauce until reduced to about 1 cup, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, stir together creme fraiche, horseradish, celery leaves, and remaining 1/8 tsp salt in a small saucepan and heat over moderate heat, stirring, just until hot.
Serve beef topped with sauce and horseradish cream.
*Try to use organic celery. Otherwise, the leaves have a chemical-like taste to them.
** I used a good beef stock (not homemade).
*** If you can’t find cheesecloth, you can make a bouquet garni using kitchen string and a coffee filter. Add all ingredients into the filter, then close top and tie off with string. Works perfectly.
**** I left the meat on the bones, because I like that feeling of eating everything off the bone at the table. Carnivorous and such. And also, only discard the bones if you are crazy and don’t want to make stock from them. Even if you don’t want to make stock soon, just wrap them in a freezer bag and pop in the freezer until you are ready. Then, next time you make this recipe, you won’t have to use the store bought stuff!! :)
Attempt Two: Short Ribs with Horseradish Cream
Jean-Georges, Momofuko Ssam Bar, and Bouchon Bakery
All in one day.*
Jim and I ventured to the city Saturday, with tickets to Tom Stoppard’s play. We walked up to the theatre, passing an unusually large mass of police and cop-cars, as well as some angry looking people, and learned at the entrance that the play was cancelled. The stage-hands had gone on strike.
After a few minutes of pity-partying, we decided that we’d make a good day out of our trip—we’d gotten someone to come over to walk the dog, planning to be out for over 12 hours, so why not take advantage of that?
Without even planning it, the day revolved around food. We had already eaten lunch at Jean-Georges, lunches of tuna tartare and then hake with coconut-milk broth and mango (for me), and mushroom soup with curried chicken and enoki mushroom and then petite filet with brussel sprouts and couscous (for Jim). The lunch was finished with a chocolate cake (or more like a chocolate marshmellow over a graham-cracker crust) with pumpkin ice cream. Everything was superb. The flavors were at once bold but not overwhelming, and the dessert captured the sense of “autumn” more perfectly than I could ever imagine. And this menu, prix-fixe, cost 24.00 per person. I am still swooning.
After that lunch, it was hard to get too disappointed about the play—we were already having such a good time and the meal alone was worth the trip into NYC. Wanting to walk off the dessert, we linked hands and strolled over to Union Square, to check out the farmer’s market. We bought some wonderful spiced hot apple cider and sipped the fragrant drink on a bench in the park, happily people watching, almost in a daze.
From there we wandered to Momofuku Ssam Bar—you know, the restaurant/gourmet fast food joint owned by David Chang. The one with the steamed pork belly buns. They are as good as the hype. Unctuous pork belly is offset by piquant pickles and the perfectly steamed buns make for a chewy, glorious little sandwich. It was probably the fattest sandwich I’ve ever eaten, but every single calorie was worth it.
Finishing our Japanese beers, we headed off for a long walk from the village to the Time-Warner building. Since we were at Momofuko at the tail end of their lunch menu, we didn’t get dessert (which is only on the dinner menu). Passing the Time-Warner building, headed for the car, I suddenly remembered that Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery was in there, a floor below Per Se. We excitedly ran in, and ordered two sandwiches, an eclair, a chocolate tart, and two cookies—a little snack for when we got home. The bakery’s food was fantastic as we munched on it hours later in the apartment, and I can imagine that Per Se is off the charts if this is what Keller offers as ready-made prepared food. Popping in a movie and feeding each other chocolates for the rest of the night, I was actually glad the stage-hands were striking.
*photo yoinked from New York Times website.
Brown-Braised Onions

Jim and I stood in the sauce aisle of the supermarket for an inexcusable amount of time yesterday. We were looking for steak sauce. The last one we tried was horrible (yet expensive!) and I think past its (unlabeled) expiration date. So, we were stuck looking over the rest of the (too-small) selection of bottles at Whole Foods. Most of them were hot in some way–Five Alarm, Smoky Hot, Chili-Fire, etc. Jim suggested we get the Thai hot steak sauce. I shook my head in disapproval. He suggested the chili pepper and smoke. Another no. The wasabi-flavored? I rolled my eyes, getting frustrated. I suggested the generic brand, which seemed to be normal steak sauce. He bawked, we were in Whole Foods, where we could get some odd-brand interesting bottle, and I wanted generic? BORE-ring.
We ended up getting nothing. And as we walked away from the aisle I had an overwhelming urge to say to him, “I know that you just don’t care about this stuff, but I do. I am cooking from Julia Child’s cookbook tonight and I cannot, can not, have some smoky, tongue burning, totally-un-French steak sauce!” As I was forming this statement in my head, however, I realized how silly I sounded. Jim just doesn’t care? Why not? He eats my food daily, he listens to me gab on about recipes all the time, he’s a diligent reader of this blog. Of course he cares. Of course he doesn’t want me to cook something that I don’t feel is right. But, also of course, how the hell would he know that five-alarm sauce doesn’t go with Julia Child–or for that matter, how would he know I’m cooking a Julia Child-French recipe when all I mentioned to him earlier was onions. So I kept my mouth shut. And felt quite proud of myself for thinking it through. I’m getting good at this “relationship” thing. (ha.)
The brown-braised pearl onions that adorned our bare steaks were fantastic, candy-like with sweet caramelized skins and tender insides. Try these if you know what’s good for you.

Brown-Braised Onions
from Mastering the Art of French CookingFor 18 to 24 peeled pearl onions about 1 inch in diameter:
- 1½ tablespoons butter
- 1½ tablespoons oil
- A 9- to 10-inch enameled skillet
- ½ cup of brown stock, canned beef bouillon, dry white wine, red wine or water*
- Salt and pepper to taste
- A medium herb bouquet: 3 parsley springs, ½ bay leaf, and ¼ teaspoon thyme tied in cheesecloth**
When the butter and oil are bubbling the skillet, add the onions and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling the onions about so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect to brown them uniformly.
Pour in the liquid, season to taste, and add the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove the herb bouquet. Serve them as they are.
*I used a beef bouillon.
**I used parsley wrapped around a bay leaf, because I sadly have no fresh thyme.

















Pat ribs dry and sprinkle 1/2 tsp salt and pepper. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat until just smoking. Add ribs and sear, turning with tongs, until well browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Transfer ribs bone sides up to a roasting pan large enough to hold them in one layer. Set aside.
