Peperonata rustica.
Well, I finally channeled Christmas last week, and it was exhausting. I made countless batches of cookies—earl grey tea cookies, chocolate chips, Heidi’s ginger chip, linzer cookies, peanut butter ones, and almond spritzes—and a Catalan beef stew for 10. We spent Christmas at Jim’s family’s, then the next day at mine (where we didn’t cook; thanks for the lamb, Dad!), Monday at the doctor’s office (not Christmasy, I know), and didn’t stop to rest before the week began again today.
We’ve got another holiday looming—New Year’s Eve—and Jim and I will spend it alone; which is not to say it won’t be exhausting in itself, as we’ll be cooking pork belly confit for the first course and pasta with sea urchin and caviar for the main. I’m already exhausted just thinking about all those delicious calories, but it’s been a tradition of Jim’s and mine to send the waning year out with a delicious bang. A few years ago we had $30 dollar baked potatoes (with black truffle) and beef tenderloin with artichokes; last year we had foie gras for an appetizer, and a roast chicken with truffles slipped under the skin for our main course. We always add a few shots of icy, viscous vodka while the time ticks towards 12, and a few chocolate desserts for once the ball drops.
And then, once we wake in the morning, dazed and a little hungover, we start the next year. We exercise and eat healthily, diligently read the New York Review of Book and the brush up on our studies. We’re pretty serious about new year resolutions, and this year is no exception. We have a wedding coming up, you know. And I’ll be damned if I don’t look just-so in my wedding dress.
Come 2010, I’ll be making this peperonata rustica, from the Ad Hoc at Home Cookbook, often. It’s healthy without going overboard (I’m not one for restricting my diet to skinless chicken breasts and wheatgrass during a diet, anyway) and packed with enough flavor to make a little go a long way.
But enough of that resolution stuff, let’s talk the Ad Hoc at Home Cookbook. It’s amazing! This peperonata rustica is amazing! The soffrito that goes in it, that takes 5 glorious hours to make, is amazing! It also gave me the Catalan beef stew, which I deemed amazing enough to suit us for Christmas dinner. Egads! This cookbook is… well, you catch my drift, amazing. And if you don’t have it already, you need to. Besides being flippin’ gorgeous, this book will make you a better cook. No question about it.
Even if this peperonata rustica isn’t the first recipe you try from the cookbook (there’s a ton of good stuff in here: I’ve tried the Catalan beef stew, fried chicken, stewed prunes, and meatballs with pappardelle so far, and have not been disappointed yet), put it on your short list.
You take sweet-tart, fresh roasted red and yellow bell peppers, and smoky, sweet piquillos and stew them with some soffrito and chicken stock, and Espelette pepper if you can find it (I couldn’t, so I used a touch of pimenton de la vera, dulce and a smaller amount of cayenne—not a perfect substitute, but it worked fine.) I’m obviously a little smitten with the soffrito; it’s made with a whole lot of good olive oil and onions, slowly caramelized over a low heat, with tomatoes added after a few hours, and a bit of garlic at the end. The result is beyond words. The perfect flavoring agent for this peperonata, or for stew. I’m not going to give you the real recipe because I really, really do think you should buy this book (I can be downright bossy sometimes) but if you refuse, I’m sure the above directions will get you by.
I would buy you all a copy of the book if I could (and I’m a little displeased with Santa, since I specifically asked him to do just that) to ring in the new year. But since I can’t do that, here’s one recipe. It’s delicious as a side for fish, or as a base for fried eggs, or eaten alone over some fluffy white rice. It’s also achingly pretty, with bits of green chive and bright reds and yellows. It’s something I can make resolutions for.
Peperonata Rustica
from the Ad Hoc at Home Cookbook [excluding side notes]
serves 6
6 yellow bell peppers
6 red bell peppers
Canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
8 ounces piquillo pepper, drained, peeled, and seeded
About ½ cup soffrito (see recipe in cookbook, or make up your own soffrito of oil, onions, tomatoes, and a touch of garlic)
1½ cups of chicken stock
¾ teaspoon piment d’Espelette
1 tablespoon minced chives
Preheat the oven to 375F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Cut the bell peppers lengthwise in half and remove the stems and seeds. Toss the peppers with oil to coat and salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the peppers cut side down on the baking sheets, the red peppers on one, the yellow peppers on the other.
Roast the peppers until the skin is blistering, 30 to 35 minutes for the red and 35 to 40 minutes for the yellow, do not allow the edges to blacken. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, or put in an airtight container with a lid.
When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them. Tear them lengthwise into strips about ¾ inch wide. Tear the piquillos into strips in the same way.
Combine all the peppers, the soffrito, stock, and Espelette [or whatever you are substituting] in a medium saucepan over medium heat, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 30 minutes, to soften the peppers completely and meld the flavors.
Transfer to a bowl or platter, sprinkle with chives, and serve.
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December 30th, 2009 at 8:09 pm
Swoon. I think I need to track down a copy of this book.
December 31st, 2009 at 4:43 am
I love peperonata, it is a good companion for so many things and this is a lovely recipe. The books sounds great too.
Happy happy new year to you (both)
December 31st, 2009 at 12:42 pm
Ooh, I just got that cookbook! I’m excited to start cooking from it.
December 31st, 2009 at 5:47 pm
I can’t stop gushing about the book, Maggie. You’re going to have so much fun with it.
We have the confit of pork belly finishing on the stove right now… :D
December 31st, 2009 at 5:48 pm
It’s well worth the price (esp. if you buy on Amazon.) :)
December 31st, 2009 at 5:48 pm
Happy new year to you too, Rachel. Thanks for stopping by.
December 31st, 2009 at 6:23 pm
I’m swooning too! Santa was very good to me this year, but I wouldn’t have minded a copy of this cookbook wedged into my stocking. The sofrito recipe alone might be reason enough to buy the book ;-) I like a man who knows his way with vegetables.
Happy New Year to both of you! May 2010 bring you lots of health and happiness.
December 31st, 2009 at 6:25 pm
Oh yum. This looks lovely! I love a great cookbook, one that not only teaches you new skills but truly inspires you, it seems like a rare find these days. Enjoy your extravagant New Years Eve dinner (I’ll be eating chocolate pudding and mashed potatoes on account of the four wisdom teeth I had yanked from my mouth yesterday, *whimper*) and thank you so much for sharing with us!
December 31st, 2009 at 6:47 pm
fantastic stuff. I just got this book for XMAS and have been pouring over it. Made the mushroom conserva which was great.
I hate peeling roasted peppers, but I reckon this would be worth it.
December 31st, 2009 at 8:20 pm
Happy New Year Robin! It’s been a pleasure meeting you (virtually) and enjoying your blog. May your 2010 be even more delicious. Cheers!
January 1st, 2010 at 3:27 pm
Lauren, It was a pleasure meeting you, too! We’ll have to meet in person one of these days. :)
Happy New Year!
January 1st, 2010 at 3:28 pm
The mushroom conserva’s on my short list. If you hate peeling peppers, this recipe kinda sucks, to be honest. There was a lot of peeling. Maybe you can recruit a friend, Tom Sawyer style? HNY!
January 1st, 2010 at 3:29 pm
Elizabeth–Ouch! I’m so sorry. Hope your eating your fill of those mashed potatoes! :)
January 1st, 2010 at 7:27 pm
Happy New Year!!!!!
I have Ad Hoc on my Library reserve list. I can’t wait to get it.
January 1st, 2010 at 8:56 pm
I love Thomas Keller, don’t get me wrong. BUT. BUT! Those pictures of him in that cookbook are ridiculous. Don’t ya think? But. I am sure the food is perfect, as always, in his new cookbook. I cooked out of Bouchon over the holidays, and all of the food was stunning! Happy New Year:)
January 1st, 2010 at 9:02 pm
Oh my god, I *totally* agree! I burst out laughing at the Shh… the lamb is resting one. Too funny. Happy New Year to you too!
January 2nd, 2010 at 9:29 am
I roasted and froze my sweet peppers when they were in season… time to make this!! Happy New Year!
January 2nd, 2010 at 11:00 am
All of your previous New Year’s meals are positively making me DROOL!!!!! I am so impressed. How was dinner this year? Please tell us about the pork belly confit. And the sea urchin pasta…one of my favorite things EVER…always have I wanted to make it at home. Always too nervous.
January 2nd, 2010 at 1:24 pm
Thanks, Rebekka!
We over-brined the pork belly confit, though it was still delicious. The sea urchin was the star of the night (and I just posted it!) Really, really easy recipe, and if you have kitchen gloves, you can prepare the sea urchin easily and safely. Let me know if you are going to try, and if you need any help. :)
January 4th, 2010 at 2:50 am
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January 4th, 2010 at 11:52 am
such a hype about this book. Americans cannot do anything without involving some celebrity effects. This recipe consists the most basic things such as soffrito that is literately as common in Spanish cooking as American’s catchup; and roasted pepper in oven that the whole world does that as long as people have an oven.
January 4th, 2010 at 1:03 pm
Sara, Thomas Keller is a fantastic recipe writer, and I read his cookbooks for the details that he includes in them. His soffrito is different from many versions I have come across. And while, yes, simmering onions and tomato and garlic for a few hours in olive oil may be “common” for Spanish cooking, the exact details of his soffrito made it the best soffrito I have ever made. Also, please do not come onto my American blog and talk disdainfully about American cooking. You may have some cliched ideas of Americans in your head, but I guarantee that they do not apply to me. Thanks.
January 4th, 2010 at 5:01 pm
I took my brother to Ad Hoc on xmas eve for a belated birthday dinner — it was SO good (main course was fried chicken with waffles, and for me, the vegetarian, I had the waffled with roasted peppers and cauliflower which made me very happy given my obsession with roasted cauliflower :); also THREE cheeses from my beloved Cowgirl Creamery, le sigh); that + this post now makes me want to buy the cookbook, either for me or as a gift. Delicious, all.
Hope you had a wonderful and delicious time ringing in the new year — here’s to a fantastic 2010!
January 5th, 2010 at 6:07 pm
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June 24th, 2010 at 5:16 pm
[...] I use it for countless things beside this shrimp, including mixed in to plain pasta, or in this peperonata rustica. It’s beautiful, full of caramelized flavors, and luscious, garlicky depth. Having this stuff [...]
July 5th, 2010 at 4:33 am
I love Thomas Keller, don’t get me wrong. BUT. BUT! Those pictures of him in that cookbook are ridiculous. Don’t ya think? But. I am sure the food is perfect, as always, in his new cookbook. I cooked out of Bouchon over the holidays, and all of the food was stunning! Happy New Year:)